Copenhagen Fashion Week AW25: The Nicklas Skovgaard AW25 Collection

Nicklas Skovgaard AW25 | ©Copenhagen Fashion Week

Event: Copenhagen Fashion Week AW25
IG: @cphfw
Brand: Nicklas Skovgaard
IG: nicklasskovgaard
First published: 29th January 2025 at 11:00 AM GMT.

Founded in 2020, the Copenhagen-based brand aims to explore the relationship textiles can hold in expressing narratives through the marriage of unexpected material and classical form. Creating his own textiles that cultivate an exceptional surface, Nicklas Skovgaard taught himself weaving after discovering a small loom and crafting swatches of his own fabric.

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About Nicklas Skovgaard

Founded in 2020, the Copenhagen-based brand aims to explore the relationship textiles can hold in expressing narratives through the marriage of unexpected material and classical form. Creating his own textiles that cultivate an exceptional surface, Nicklas Skovgaard taught himself weaving after discovering a small loom and crafting swatches of his own fabric. Expanding on to a bigger surface allowed Nicklas to create larger pieces moulded into jackets, hats and capelets. With his handmade textiles mapped against contradictory fabrications and cut into unexpected silhouettes, there is a strange visual appeal to the combinations that range from hand-woven wool fabric merged with water repellant fabric, silk taffeta and stretch jersey. All resulting in silhouettes that are captivating in their unexpected manipulations and combinations, hoping to profess a dreamlike state clothes can affect. Constructing two collections a year, each body of work for Nicklas Skovgaard builds upon the last, acting with an evolutionary purpose and building an ever-evolving vocabulary. Orchestrating these classical and strange symphonies within his eponymous textiles and recognizable design, Nicklas Skovgaard is a brand cultivated on the edge of romanticism and realism.Nicklas Skovgaard was enrolled to CPHFW NEWTALENT in May 2023 and will be showcasing on the official schedule as an active part of CPHFW NEWTALENT for SS24 and AW24. Nicklas Skovgaard was nominated a finalist of the Wessel & Vett Fashion Prize 2022.

Ever since beginning of the brand one of the important things for designer Nicklas Skovgaard was how he could try to help minimize waste by working with the traditional craft of hand-weaving. When working with the loom as the primary tool for crafting fabric used for jackets, coats and hats he only weaves the exact amount of fabric needed for a certain style and specific size resulting in minimal waste. The designing and making of all of the hand-woven styles is made locally in his studio in Copenhagen. Once the fabric is woven it is sewn together and being produced - also locally in the studio. Moreover, he tries to help minimize overproduction of his garments by working with not having any stock - only what is actually ordered and sold, is being produced.

Nicklas Skovgaard AW25

THEMATICS:

Nicklas Skovgaard Collection 10 draws inspiration from a series of three silkscreen prints by Andy Warhol titled “Hans Christian Andersen” from 1986. The “Hans Christian Andersen” series was one of the last works created by Warhol before his death. The three silkscreen prints all portray iconic paper cutting which feature gures and stories by H.C. Andersen from his renowned fairytales from the 19th century. The “Hans Christian Andersen” silkscreen prints all display the characteristic Warhol pop-art style from their use of colors and techniques.

“As a child growing up only a 30 minute drive from the house in which Hans Christian Andersen himself was born, I’ve always had a big love for his fairytales as well as the amazing paper cut-outs he did. To me, he somehow represents the essence of being Danish. A few years back when I was
first introduced to the silk screen print series by Andy Warhol named after Andersen and reproducing his work I was so struck by all of them. It was so interesting to experience theses three paper cutouts by Andersen in the world of Warhol. The duality between these two iconic artists and their works feels so refreshing. They’re telling a pop art fairytale!”

— Nicklas Skovgaard, Designer

Through the use of different techniques Nicklas Skovgaard investigates ways of working with fabrications in methods that are also done when working with paper. Cutting, ripping and outlining of fabrics as details are some of the techniques that the collection holds. Another way the Warhol / Andersen connection is translated into the collection is through the use of silhouettes, these feel exaggerated and two dimensional whilst still keeping their volume. The contrast that the series of silk screen print series holds is also reinterpreted into the collection through the use of color and textile combinations.

KEY PIECES:

Ripped silk organza “feather” coat with contrast lapels. Ripped chiffon “feather” top, dress and skirt. Wool broad shouldered bomber styles with leather panels. Panelled dresses with “mattress” skirts in wool and corduroy. Wool jackets and coats with contrast chiffon “feather” fringe throughout all seams. Trompe l’oeil dress in “Im Stoffbruch” printed chiffon with wire detailed skirt and quilted suede sleeves and mini skirt. Silk organza slip dress with wire throughout the hem. Heavy draped jersey dress with leather details and cowl neck. Silver lamé dress with chiffon back and built-in cape. Materials : Wool. Leather. Silk organza. Chiffon. Corduroy. Cotton. Viscose jersey. Sequins. Hand-woven wools. Lamé.

DETAILS:

Curly wired hems. Leather panels throughout jackets, dresses and skirts. Heavy draped details throughout jersey and chiffon styles. Ripped “feather” chiffon and silk organza. Built-in capes at the back of tops and dresses. Heavy knit made from recycled t-shirts cotton yarn.

CASTING:

Casting for the show was by Emma Matell Casting.

MUSIC:

The music for the show was curated by Nicklas Skovgaard in close collaboration with danish band Fame Hunter by Siggy Sonne and Heva Vaupel. Fame Hunter also did a live performance of “Disappear” for the nale.

PARTNERSHIPS:

This season was made possible though a partnership with Ecco who supported with shoes and gloves from their collection. A selection of specic colors for gloves and a re-design of the Ecco shoes and gloves was designed by Nicklas Skovgaard and made especially for the show. Make-up and beauty teams are sponsored by MAC cosmetics with key artist Vilde Feste. Hair styling was sponsored by KAO with key artist Marianne Jensen.

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