NYFW SS25

Brand: Prabal Gurung NYFWSS25 | Photo: ©Diane Bondareff

Words and Reporting by Janine Silver
First published: 23rd September at 9:00 AM GMT

Janine Silver brings you a selection that provides a comprehensive overview of multiple fashion collections and beauty looks from various designers' Spring/Summer 2025 shows, highlighting innovative designs, inspirations, and beauty trends across different brands.

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“In honor of our 10-year anniversary, we present a collection that embodies our unwavering commitment to creativity, craftsmanship, and unconventional beauty.” Shares designer Piotrek Panszcyk Burke.  “This season, we delve deep into themes of identity, self-expression, and the power of personal style. By reimagining uniforms and exploring the tension between conformity and rebellion, we challenge traditional norms and celebrate fashion as a canvas for individuality.” 

Featuring metallic fringe, laser cut hands, big buckles, fingerprint designs and metal accents, the show was a celebration of Burke’s creativity and fashion-forward vision.  Burke also partnered with Tinder and used his show as a platform to share the message “Bans Off Our Bodies” on an exclusive T-shirt for the runway and magnets for the guests.

The beauty looks matched the collection. “We were looking at like old Man Ray pictures, surrealist in some sections, and then we were also looking at like Helmut Newton images, Catherine Deneuve in the film ‘The Hunger’ so slightly sinister, very powerful strong glamour moments interspersed with a juxtaposition of a very raw, almost no makeup, slightly grungy feel as well,” shares MAC Cosmetics Lead Artist Yadim. 

Celebrity Stylist Mustafa Yanaz with TRESemmé crafted two styles as well to complement the collection focusing on “lived-in hair, not too clean, more dirty” along with grunge elements. The idea is not to make it too perfect and to focus on texture.

Photography: ©Janine Silver

Simkhai

Inspired by a photo of his mother on her wedding day, presenting her adorned in textured lace from his grandfather’s lace mill in Iran, Simkhai’s collection focused on textures and the beauty of spring.  From designs representing the veins in a petal of a flower embroidered onto semi-sheer skirts to leather 3-D cut flowers and even an orange dress covered in butterflies. 

With the feeling of (next) spring in the air, Simkhai wanted to showcase beautiful, natural skin.  YSE Beauty by Molly Sims made sure each model’s complexion looked like the best version of themselves.  Catherine Esposito, facialist, esthetician and YSE ambassador focused on a few key products to keep models skin looking plump and hydrated despite days with lots of makeup and harsh lights.  “I'm obsessed with YSE Beauty’s The Problem Solver which has Tranexamic Acid and Niacinamide, so it's really nice for this time of year.” Esposito explains.  “It helps fight any of your hyperpigmentation, so it really clears up your skin. It's similar to getting a laser treatment to slough off that dead skin.”  Esposito also used Xtremly Rich backstage to get the models ready for the runway, “it’s super nourishing.  It's going to keep you plump all day.”  On top of that she used, “Skin Glow our SPF, it gives you a photo finish.  So, you're glowing, but you're also protected, and it has like a little bit of a tint in it.”

To pair with the glowing complexions, Celebrity Stylist Holli Smith created the ‘Tousled Tresses’ hairstyle.  “Leaning into 70’s archetypes, we went for an untouched Brigitte Bardot vibe to get an effortless style, and the TRESemmé Extra Hold Mousse was key to highlighting the texture in the hair.”  Smith explained that they really wanted to honor the models’ natural hair, but overall focused on natural parts and hair that was lived in, but laid flatter around the face.   Smith explains the goal was “to make everybody look like they have their own texture, but still is kind of married in a way where it's close to the head,  it has these little framing [pieces].  I just wanted it to feel summery.  [As if] they just got out of the shower, and it dried exactly like that and then you messed it up from there.”

Photography: ©Dave Kotinsky | Getty Images for TRESemmé

Private Policy

The devil is here and has taken over the runway.  Private Policy’s SS2025 collection was inspired by “the 2000s fashion office era, famously portrayed in ‘The Devil Wears Prada.’ This collection takes a thoughtful look at how AI is reshaping the workplace, posing the question: Will we allow the AI ‘devil’ to drive us toward efficiency at the expense of creativity and well-being? Or can we harness technology to enhance our career while preserving the balance we’ve worked so hard to achieve?”

The show brings the collection from the cubicles to the runway with little office touches throughout, such as empty badge holders and key fobs. Based around the 2000s silhouettes, but with a more current approach “featuring updated brand checkered prints in florals as a fashion insider joke to ‘Florals, for Spring?’  Silver hardware and distressed details inject a sense of playful rebellion, while delicate sequin, string knots, and sheer draped fabrics create a sleek, forward- thinking aesthetic.”

When it comes to completing the look, “Emily Blunt’s character had a really great blow out, so did Annie Hathaway in that movie.  So that's where this whole idea of collection came from,” explains Celebrity Stylist Ted Gibson.  “We wanted to recreate that kind of vibe with the hair.  We started off with a product called Shooting Star Texture Meringue by Starring.” He applied it from the scalp to the ends to help achieve that perfect look. “To create this really finished blow dry we use a medium sized round brush that’s dual bristled between nylon and boar because with the dual bristle you get a really nice finish.  Followed up with just a light spray of hairspray because what we want to happen is that as a models walk down the runway; we want the hair to move and bounce.  That bounce is really, really, really important. I think that every girl in America wants to look like that,” Gibson shares.

To pair with the gorgeous hair, Lead Makeup Artist Kabuki with MAC Cosmetics focused on a high shine complexion. “It’s a continuation of the last season where we made the models look almost like they're made out of plastic or AI,” Kabuki explains.  “This time we did the same thing, but with eyeshadow almost the way it would be put on with an app. It's in 4 different colors; silver, a moss green, burgundy, and baby blue...”   The face makeup is kept very simple.  “There's no contouring, we're just evening out the skin and turning down redness in the face or the lips… We're using this primer underneath [MAC Studio Radiance] just to keep a real high shine to the skin.  That’s really the statement, that overall feeling of plasticity.”

The nails also got the AI meets Devil Wears Prada treatment with Pattie Yankee’s ‘Melded Metals’ set featuring three different nails: a solid silver chrome, an outlined silver chrome and a textured silver chrome nail. 

Photography: ©Janine Silver

THEOPHILIO

At THEOPHILIO’s “SHAUNIE” Spring/Summer 2025 Collection, THEOPHILIO drew inspiration from the vibrant energy and eclectic styles of New York City, reflecting a journey through the city's diverse neighborhoods and the fusion of its cultures, trends, and experiences.

 The collection featured silk, leather, sequins and even a ‘90s feeling graffiti print as well as, an oversized suit and cheetah print.

To pair with the nostalgic collection and capture the essence and dynamic spirit of the city, Miss Pop, Lead Manicurist and ZOYA Brand Ambassador created dark glam nails.  “We’re taking ZOYA ‘Willa’ which is this deep black and we're putting over a deep purple glitter, ‘Mimi,’ a bright green glitter named ‘Apple,’ and a yellow gold glitter ‘Kerry’ and we're just placing it right over, using the brush in the bottle, right over the [coat of] ‘Willa.,” Miss Pop explains, while also sharing that these new polishes are the perfect way to easily achieve the bold, glittery chrome finish for anyone looking to recreate the look at home.

Photography: ©Theophilio

NAEEM KHAN

Naeem Khan’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection showcased embellished designs, texture and lots of glitz and glam.  However, just when it appeared to be ending, the lights shifted to a striking green, and the iconic music from ‘Wicked’ filled the venue. In collaboration with Universal Studios, Khan revealed a ‘Wicked’-inspired capsule collection, perfectly timed to coincide with the November release of Jon M. Chu’s film adaptation of the famous music.  With colors and shapes reminiscent of the emerald city and both the good and wicked witches.  Favorites include a glittery sequined mini dress with graduated size golden sequins, a jeweled emerald and black dress with ruffles and a black one- shoulder gown with intricate back sequins, blossoming to create texture and interest.

“The beauty look for the Naeem Khan SS25 show was inspired by the never-ending opposition and attraction of good and evil, the light and the darkness.” Explained Georgi Sandev for ZO Skin Health.   “It’s an opposition to the purity and sinisterness around us — how both are beautiful, glowing, and fatally attractive sometimes.” 

To marry that darkness and light, Pattie Yankee concocted the ultimate new take on the French manicure.  With a dark black tip on a nude base, this updated French manicure paired perfectly with Khan’s complete collection from the pink chiffon gown to a jet-back beaded bodysuit with a voluminous, ruffled jacket.

Photography: ©Janine Silver

MALAN BRETON

Drawing inspiration from 19th and 20th-century fairy tales, Malan Breton’s collection features bold, flowing designs crafted from leather, silk, lightweight wool, silk brocades.  The expert tailoring that has earned Breton global recognition was apparent.  Exploring the themes of betrayal, revenge, and hope, the collection was composed of nudes and silvers with pops of yellow.  Standouts include a yellow tutu with a neutral corseted top, a nude striped coat with an exceptional collar, and a silver skirt and jacket set paired with a button down.  Elton IIirjani closed the show with a beautiful long flowing cape which took up half the runway and thigh-high silver boots.

A bold, classic red lip added a touch of color to the look and the skin which was left simple and clean. Side swept hair let the models’ complexions shine, while letting the garments take center stage.

Photography: ©Arun Nevader

PRABAL GURUNG

Prabal Gurung debuted his Spring/Summer 2025 collection, inspired by Holi, the Indian festival that celebrates spring, love, and renewal. The color palette transitions from soft pastels to bold, vibrant hues, reflecting the joyful spirit of the festival.

The collection featured fabrics meant to float in the wind along with structured bodices and sheer fabrics with beaded pops of color. For the finale, the models came out in white supima cotton looks before throwing pink powder, typically used during Holi, to create complete new white and pink looks, live on the runway.

The hairstyle developed by Lead Stylist Anthony Cole with Wella crafted soft, wind-blown hair with subtle highlights inspired by the magical golden hour.  “For the style, we wanted it to move in the wind and have this endless bounce to the hair. I knew I needed to start with Wella Professionals Miracle Hair Rescue and a collection of Wella Professionals and Sebastian products to obtain that runway vision for Prabal,” shares Cole.  Consulting with Wella Ambassador Briana Cisneros, together they created subtle highlights in shades replicating the natural, gorgeous colors hair turns that hour right before sunset.

To keep the look natural, Peach & Lily gave each model their iconic glass skin, no-makeup look. “This look redefines runway beauty standards with a fresh approach to skincare and makeup,” explains Lead Sil Bruinsma.  “We wanted the look to focus on glass skin, exuding freshness and pureness,” Bruinsma shares.  Glossy fresh skin is for everyone.

Tying everything together, Lead Manicurist & KISS Brand Ambassador, Gina Edwards created a subtle yet stunning nail.   “The nail look created for Prabal was based on the optimism for the future. The smokey quartz nail is a symbol of spreading light and hope.”  Edwards carefully added white to nude nails to create her signature subtle, yet special nail look. 

Photography: ©Diane Bondareff, Janine Silver

Son Jung Wan

Son Jung Wan’s 25th collection, ‘The Wonder of Diversity’ captures a broad spectrum of creativity and beauty.  Inspired by Paris in the springtime, Wan captured the essence, romance, and magic of the city of lights.  With glittering fabrics reminiscent of the Eiffel tower twinkling at night, lots of texture, and fun stripes, Paris came alive.   The color palette of neutrals and whites along with lilac, fuchsia and gold hues embodied springtime.  Starring looks include a striped pant suit, a textured floral gown and a glittery sheer oversized trench.

To keep the freshness all the way to the model’s fingertips, Pattie Yankee paired the look with a ‘Peek a Boo French,’ on a simple almond nail.  “It’s the perfect nude to match everything,” explains Yankee who applied ‘Barely There’ and ‘Be Kind’ polish from her own line to create a subtle French manicure.

The makeup was also kept fresh and simple in beautiful shades of pink.  Lead Artist Jet Yang with Bobbi Brown added Bobbi Brown rose shimmer blush to the eyelids and a touch of eyeshadow in shade ‘Moonstone’ to the inner corner to get the sweet look.  Cheeks were also given a touch of pink with Pot Rouge in ‘Pale Pink.’  The makeup was finished off with Luxe Matte Lipstick in ‘Boss Pink’ and a small pearl applied near the eye.

Photography: ©Janine Silver

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