Copenhagen Fashion Week AW25: The Bonnetje AW25 Collection
Event: Copenhagen Fashion Week AW25
IG: @cphfw
Brand: Bonnetje
IG: bonnetje.official
First published: 28th January 2025 at 11:00 AM GMT.
“Doublages” - The interplay of duality reveals the multifaceted nature of identity.
About Bonnetje
Bonnetje, a Copenhagen-based brand, specializes in cutting up old suits and reassembling the pieces into new silhouettes.
By reusing defunct materials, Bonnetje contribute to the search for fashion beyond the current throwaway society. Their focus extends to past, present, and future sustainable practices.
Bonnetje does not aim to pioneer a brand new style but offers their perspective on the emerging movement of circularity within fashion. Collaboration with contemporary peers and across generations is essential to the brand's approach. Rather than discarding yesterday's fashion, they aim to preserve it for today and reintroduce it into circulation. In refashioning existing suit items, Bonnetje literally turns certain parts inside-out, honoring the meticulous tailoring by exposing hidden details such as seams, pockets, and lining.
Additionally, they incorporate feminine silhouettes into classic masculine forms, blurring the lines between inclusion and exclusion within clothing.
After last year’s showcase, where they were featured as ‘One to Watch,’ Bonnetje returns in 2025 for the Autumn/Winter 2025 Copenhagen Fashion Week with their first-ever fashion show. Highlighted on the CPHFW Show & Presentation Schedule and showcased in the CPHFW Showroom as part of the 'New Talent' program, the Copenhagen-based brand reinterprets vintage suits into innovative silhouettes, embracing sustainability and circular fashion. By blending past and present influences, Bonnetje pushes the boundaries of traditional design, celebrates craftsmanship, and explores gender fluidity in clothing.
Bonnetje AW25
The Bonnetje Autumn/Winter 2025 show during Copenhagen Fashion Week, addresses the current desire for work-life balance due to the increasing lack thereof. “Doublages” deals with ideals of performing both in the private and professional arena as the gap between the two diminishes.
For this collection, Bonnetje revisits the classic white-collar suit, traditionally worn in office settings. But Bonnetje’s suits no longer signal uniform, i.e. one form, but rather two or many forms. One suit might in other words suit different lifestyles and expressions. In terms of material usage, in one piece, vertical blinds— typically used to manage privacy, airflow, and light— are retrofitted as a dress to manifest different images of the self. Functionality becomes secondary whilst leaving space for creativity and embodying the fluidity of identity. The piece displays how an individual unfolds her potential with the option of regaining it.
In another piece, transparent plastic sleeves for documents are turned into a close-fitting dress that exposes the body. These creations make a bold statement: the wearer is immersed in work, wrapped in the materiality of their professional life, while simultaneously confronting the pervasive demand for transparency across both the public and private domains.
Bonnetje draws inspiration from the fragmented identities explored in films like Maya Deren’s experimental works, American Psycho, and the TV series Severance. Each examines themes of duality and split personalities, resonating with the collection’s core concept. The title “Doublages”, derived from the French term for dubbing or doubling, encapsulates this interplay of duality—offering garments that act as body doubles for their wearers, reflecting multiple facets of their identity.
With this collection, Bonnetje continues to challenge traditional fashion, blending artistry, sustainability, and storytelling. Their designs invite wearers to reflect on the multiplicity of modern life while engaging in a dialogue about self-expression and the shifting boundaries of work and personal identity.
Inspired by the Bonnetje AW25 show venue —an abandoned office floor embodying the frictional atmosphere of work-life balance—and to further the sensory experience, a custom scent-scape was designed by AirSolutions. The scent designer drew inspiration from a personal item that contrasted the mechanized office environment of PC towers and copy machines with the olfactory, humanist shade of a lipstick.
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